Spicing up Stillorgan after 30 years - Sunday Independent

Editor Kevin Flanagan celebrates 30 tasty years at Monsoon in Stillorgan, and finds there's still plenty of spice in this Dublin favourite

30 years is a long time in the restaurant business. Food fashions come and go; chefs move on, and the hottest table in town can become yesterday's news. But Monsoon, in its cosy cottage on The Hill in Stillorgan, has been serving great Indian food since 1996.

I was invited along to celebrate its 30th anniversary and quickly understood its staying power. From the soft glow of lanterns and flowers to the warm welcome from Arun and his team, it feels more like being welcomed into somebody's home than entering a restaurant.

Then the food arrives, and the fun begins!

A taste of India

What I like about Monsoon is how the menu takes you on a tasty trip around India, from Bengal's delicate Macher Jhol fish curry to fiery southern Prawn Pepper Fry and Awadhi kebabs.

Our feast began with Tokri Chaat, a crisp potato basket packed with chickpeas, potatoes, sweet yoghurt and tangy chutneys - crunchy, creamy, sweet, sour and spicy.

Tandoori Prawns were another hit: juicy king prawns marinated with ajwain, Kashmiri

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chilli and yoghurt, then char-grilled.
We also tucked into golden vegetable samosas and Tellicherry Pepper Chicken, with black pepper, curry leaves and toasted spices providing a lovely kick.

With Pau Bhaji and Chole Bhaturey also available, Monsoon brings the fun and flavours of India's street-food markets to Stillorgan.

Curry favourites

Then came the mains. Lamb Pepper Fry was beautifully tender, while the Old Delhi-style Butter Chicken was creamy and comforting.

Insert Tandoori Prawns Photo Here Tandoori Prawns Insert Tokri Chaat Photo Here Tokri Chaat

My favourite was the Mango Fish Curry, cooked Kerala-style with coconut milk, raw mango and curry leaves - perfect with fresh tandoori bread!

The wines impressed too. A fruity Terra Forti Nero d'Avola handled the spices beautifully, while the crisp Thunderchild white suited the lighter dishes.

A Stillorgan institution

Monsoon's regional tradition shines at its annual Onam Sadhya, Kerala's great vegetarian feast. It also caters for the Indian Ambassador and Embassy of India, as well as private and corporate events.

But its greatest achievement is simpler: children who once visited with their parents now return with families of their own.

Restaurants don't survive 30 years by following fashion. They become part of their community, and Monsoon has done exactly that.

Call 01 288 4262 and visit monsoon.ie for bookings and menus